Just a little theory as an introduction
High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is a set of techniques that allow a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of an image than current standard digital imaging techniques. One of the biggest problems in photography is how to successfully display the scene so that the bright areas in the picture are not too bright (burned away) and the dark areas are not too dark. To avoid this, photographers use different types of graduated filters (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graduated_neutral_density_filter), black card technique (http://www.flickr.com/photos/anthonyko/sets/72157600257527104/) and HDR.
What do I need for HDR?
For HDR you need:
- camera (of course)
- tripod (that all exposures have the same scene without camera movement)
- remote triger (wire or wireless, to avoid camera movement)
You also need some software on your computer:
- Program to generate the HDR, there are many, but here we use one of the most famous: Photomatix (http://www.hdrsoft.com/). If you do not have Photomatix, here you can download a trial version: http://www.hdrsoft.com/download.html
- Adobe Photoshop (CS5 recommended) or another image editing program that has the ability to work with layers
Does the camera should be set?
Yes, the camera also needs to prepared for HDR, and maybe you will need a user’s manual.
- Turn on option “Auto bracketing“
- If possible adjust the bracketing order to +, 0, -
- Adjust saving of images in RAW and JPG format
What is RAW and why it is needed?
RAW is a photograph which was recorded by the camera sensor without or with minimal processing. Often RAW is called digital negative, because it should be prepared with the proper software for further processing (viewing, printing …). You can read more on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raw_image_format. If you have not properly set your camera, white balance or exposure for example, that can be corrected in the RAW converter. Since RAW is a photo that the camera sensor has recorded, it has the largest dynamic range, which in later conversion to other formats (TIF, JPG) is lost. To make later viewing of captured images easier, it is also desirable to save the photos in JPG format.
Photographing for HDR
If you have everything you need for HDR, you can start photographing. Find an interesting shot, set the camera on a tripod and connect the wire trigger. For landscape photography set camera as follows:
- AV mode
- F/8 because of the greater depth of field
- ISO 100 it would be less noise
- Choose a frame
- Set the focus to the 2 / 3 the depth of field
- record a series of photos (3 or more, depending on how many your camera allows)
After returning from the shooting move photos to a computer. Now we can start making HDR.
Which photos are suitable for making HDR?
HDR can be done from photos in JPG and TIF formats. HDR made from photos in JPG format has a bit more vibrant color, but because JPG is lesser quality than TIF, a little more noise. HDR made from photos in TIF format is slightly better quality, but there is a little less color.
What types of HDR’s exists?
There are two basic types of HDR:
- Normal (real) HDR made with more photos with different exposures
- Pseudo HDR is made from one photo from which you make multiple copies and in RAW editor changed exposure of each copy. Do not make pseudo HDR from photographs in JPG format because there is too much loss in quality, and the result is not satisfactory.
Let’s make HDR…
First, on the computer create a new temporary working folder and copy photos from which you are making HDR. If you do not have your own photos, you can use the photos IMG01.JPG, IMG02.JPG, IMG03.JPG from working materials.
Now we have 3 (or more) photos from which we are doing HDR.
You can use this images for training and learning.
The procedure is as follows…
- Start PhotoMatix
- In window “Workflow Shortcuts“ click on “Load Bracketed Photos“
- In a new window that opens (“Generate HDR – Selecting source images“), click on “Browse …” and find photos from which you are doing HDR
- Click OK
- New window “Preprocessing Options” is now opened. Our photos are taken on tripod, so we dont need first option “Align source images“. On the photographs is sea and small waves that vary on each of the exposure, so we check the second option “Reduce ghosting artifact”, “Automatic“ and Detection “High“
- Click OK
- PhotoMatix is working…
- If you have older version of PhotoMatix, you will see an ugly HDR.. don’t worry … just click on “Tone mapping”. In newer versions PhotoMatix goes directly to “Tone mapping“, unless you chek option “Show intermediary 32-bit HDR image“ on window “Generate HDR – Select souce image“
- When photomatix finished with work, it opens window with overview of HDR, on the left side is window with adjustment paramaters and on the bottom is window with preset thumbnails. Explanation of parameter setting can be found in the help for PhotoMatix, so here we will not explain them detailed. Settings that work well are the following:
- If you wish, you may play with those setting to see how it effects on HDR image. It would be good to save these settings by clicking on the “Presets” and in drop-down menu choose “Save Settings …”
- Click on “Process“
- HDR is finished!
- Now save it… select menu “File + Save As“ or shortcut „Ctrl+S“. Give him a name like „IMG01_HDR_MYNAME.TIF“. Notice that the HDR is saved in TIF format, so there is no loss in quality as the JPG files.
- Don’t worry if you see lot of noise (HDR images are lot noisy then regular), or if HDR does not look too good. We will correct it later. This HDR is now usable, and HDR’s like this you can find plenty on the Internet (for example: http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/03/10/35-fantastic-hdr-pictures/). Since our goal is to get a little more realistic HDR, we will continue processing in Photoshop.
- Close PhotoMatix and start Photoshop.
Processing HDR in Photoshop
In Photoshop select „File + Open“ or shortcut Ctrl+O. Select 3 images: overexposed image (+3 EV or +2 EV), HDR image and normal image (0 EV) (for multiple selections press and hold down Ctrl key when selecting with mouse).
- press “Open“
- Images are opened in Photoshop…
- Select HDR image, select all (menu Select + All or shortcut Ctrl+a), copy (menu Edit + Copy or shortcut Ctrl+C), close image (menu File + Close or shortcut Ctrl+W or Ctrl+F4)
- Select normal image and paste copied image (menu Edit + Paste or shortcut Ctrl+V). In list of layers appeared a new layer in which is the HDR image
- Select overexposed image and repeat previous steps (select all, copy, close, paste). Now overexposed image is on the top of all layers. Change blending mode to “Multiply“.
- Now you can see HDR image, but usually it is too dark. Change the opacity until all parts of the HDR are clearly visible and not too dark. Usually it is about 75%, but in this example it is about 40%. Check a difference obtained with this effect by turning on and off the layer with the overexposed image (little eye to the left in the list of layers). HDR now look more realistic.
- You can also check the difference between this HDR and the normal image… press and hold down the alt key and then turn on and off the background layer.
- Let’s save our HDR. First flatten image (menu Layer + Flatten image), then select menu “File + Save As”… change format to TIF and in file list select original HDR image (IMG01_HDR_MYNAME.TIF). Click “Save”.
- Our HDR now looks like this:
- We will continue with adjusting Shadows / Highlights (menu Image + Adjustments + Shadows/Highlights…). Check on option “Show More Options” if it’s unchecked. With the adjustment of these options you can play around and see what influence it has on the photo. Values that give good results in most cases are the following:
- If you wish, you may save this setting as default, by pressing the “Save As Defaults” button. To see changes on photo, turn off and then turn on “Preview” option. The colors are a little stronger now, and sky more dramatic:
- Now is the right time for one step that does not refer only to the HDR, but for all the photos – Lens Correction. Always make Lens Correction on a separate layer. The copy of layer can be created from the menu Layer + Duplicate Layer (shortcut Ctrl + J). Since we already have a separate layer, now we will not do it. Select menu Filter + Lens Correction… the following window is opened:
- On the left side (1) are some basic tools: Remove Distortion Tool, Straighten Tool, Move Grid Tool, Hand Tool and Zoom Tool.
- On the right side are Lens Profiles. If Photoshop is not able to determine which a model of lens you used, select it yourself. In doing so, you may need to browse profile lenses online…
- On the bottom (3) you may turn on/off Preview and Grid
- Tab “Custom” (4) offers some advanced options for correcting photos
- First we will align the image. It is necessary to choose the part of the photo closer to the center, which should be horizontal or vertical. In this photo it is part labeled with (5). This part of the photo you can zoom in using the Zoom Tool. Select “Straighten Tool”. Click and hold down left mouse button on the left side of the photo where the sky joins with the sea. Drag the mouse to the right along the line of the horizon and then release the left mouse button. Voila! Photo is aligned!
- In the lower right corner where the zoom is shown, click on the selection of zoom (small arrow down) and select “Fit on Screen”. Please make sure everything is OK and click OK.
Removing noise
- As we mentioned before, HDR is bit more noisy then regular image, so let’s remove noise. I usually use “Dfine” filter (http://www.niksoftware.com/dfine/usa/entry.php), but if you haven’t got it, use Photoshop filter. Open menu “Filter + Noise + Reduce noise…”. In this window try changing parameters until you get best result.
- Much better results are obtained with Dfine. Open menu “Filter + Nik Software + Dfine”. Upon opening, Dfine automatically profiles photo. In the lower right corner you can see part of photo without filter and with filter. With the mouse check different parts of the image to see how much of the noise will be reduced by Dfine.
- After you click on OK, Dfine is working…









































































